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The Catalan fast fashion group Mango has recently announced its first collaboration with the Italian brand of tailor-made jackets Boglioli. An unprecedented alliance which on the one hand represents a confirmation for the Brescia company (relaunched in 2017 after a period of crisis) and on the other a bet on the return of formal men’s clothing, after the domination of post-pandemic casualwear, also to eyes of a young clientele inclined to buy affordable products (but not too much: the Mango jackets designed by Boglioli cost almost 300 euros).
The Barcelona-Gambara axis (and the eight “Lombard” jackets)
The collection, launched in Milan with an event at the Torre Velasca not yet open to the public after the massive renovation project, features eight jackets created inspired by the principles of tailoring which take their name from as many Italian cities: Cremona, Lodi, Milan, Mantua, Brescia, Como, Monza and Lecco. By the company’s own admission, two of the pillars of the capsule are Italian fabrics (primarily flannel and wool knit) and the packaging took place in European laboratories.
The Spanish group’s men’s line recently turned 15 and will close the year with revenues of 325 million euros (doubling turnover compared to 2020) and 560 stores in 90 countries. Boglioli has a completely different history, over half a century of expertise in the creation of tailored men’s jackets, and size: the company from Gambara, in the province of Brescia, after a difficult period and the subsequent change of ownership (since 2017 it is at 100 % owned by Phi Industrial Acquisitions) in June expected a 2023 turnover of 20 million euros, compared to 17.5 million in 2022.
The momentum of formal wear
Mango already has a series of collaborations with other brands and, unlike other competitors, has often preferred niche labels to renowned brands (such as those involved by H&M, most recently Paco Rabanne): in May, for example, it launched a capsule with the Californian brand Simon Miller. However, this is the first time it has linked itself to a made in Italy men’s formal clothing brand. The choice, in fact, interprets an ongoing trend: the return of formalwear after three years in which casual and sportswear dominated wardrobes around the world. According to Euromonitor, in the period 2022-2026, retail sales of non-denim shirts, blouses, trousers and skirts will grow at a faster rate than in the previous 10 years. In the report The State of Fashion 2023, which was published at the end of December 2022 with the forecasts for this year, McKinsey analysts had spoken of an acceleration of formalwear – resulting from the rebound recorded in 2021 and 2022 – which would continue over the course of of 2023, with particularly high growth in the special occasion clothing segment, but a possible slowdown linked to general economic conditions. In detail, 39% of the executives interviewed have bet on sales of clothing for special occasions in the top 3 for growth in 2023; 27% instead placed workwear on the podium.
Does smart tailoring challenge the crisis?
It is precisely “smart” tailoring that represents the key to interpreting the tastes of a clientele that has profoundly changed during the pandemic. And it could be a driver for sales of men’s formalwear, “besieged” – like the entire sector – by the crisis.